Centuries of Basque immigrant culture are distilled into a meal at Bakersfield, California's Wool Growers restaurant, where lunch is a parade of rib-sticking dishes. First, vegetable soup chockful of cabbage and leeks; stewed pinto beans; a tomatoey "hot sauce." Then marinated tomatoes, mixed greens, a creamy slab of blue cheese. Finally, meat: tender beef tongue in a parsley-packed vinaigrette or oxtail stew loaded with sweet carrots. Solid, satisfying, lovable: it's just how we want this old-world cuisine to be.