The signature dish at Mocotó, one of São Paulo's most celebrated restaurants, is a hearty cow’s-heel soup by the same name. Hailing from the Brazilian backlands of the Sertão, the stew is a comforting taste of home for Sertão transplants in São Paulo, including Mocotó founder José Oliveira de Almeida. When his son Rodrigo took over the restaurant, he swapped out the traditional cornmeal or wheat flour for grated cassava, resulting in a much lighter and more flavorful broth.
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