The alluring bright green color of balanzoni comes from spinach, which is added to a dough of super-refined 00 flour and eggs. “In Bologna, they always use 00 flour,” chef Evan Funke of Felix in Los Angeles says. “It’s a very rich city, so there’s that long and deep-seated mind-set that refinement is the top.” The fillings, like the shape, are similar to those of tortellini—typically ricotta and Parmigiano, ground salumi such as mortadella, and beaten egg. They’re served with butter and sage, which settles satisfyingly into the pasta’s channels and folds. Fair warning: Balanzoni require a little more dexterity than some other filled pastas because you fold them in the air rather than against a table.