In their acclaimed The River Cafe Cookbook (Ebury Press, 1995), Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers (of London’s River Cafe) offer a version of this Italian classic. We adapted their recipe.
- 1 (3 1/2–4-lb.) boneless loin of pork
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 2 tbsp. olive oil
- 2 tbsp. butter
- 5 cloves garlic, peeled and halved
- Leaves from 2 branches fresh sage
- 6 cups milk, hot
- 4-6 strips lemon zest, wide
- Generously season pork all over with salt and pepper. Put oil into an enameled cast-iron or other heavy-bottomed pot large enough to hold pork snugly and heat over medium-high heat. Add pork and cook until well browned on all sides, 10–12 minutes. Transfer pork to a large plate and set aside. Pour off rendered fat from pot, wiping out any blackened bits with damp paper towels.
- Melt butter in same pot over medium heat. Add garlic and sage and cook, stirring often, until garlic just begins to brown, about 1 minute. Add pork and any accumulated juices, then add milk. Bring to a boil, scatter lemon zest around pork, and reduce heat to medium-low. Partially cover pot and gently simmer, without stirring, until milk has reduced by three-quarters and turned into golden curds, 3-4 hours.
- Transfer meat to a cutting board to carve. Serve with curds and meat juices from pot.