When Beatrice Ughi, founder of the fine specialty Italian food shop Gustiamo, came to New York City from Naples, Italy thirty years ago, she had never heard of the Feast of the Seven Fishes. "None of my Italian friends here [in the US] had heard about it, either," she says. "Yes, in the South [of Italy], fish is on the menu on Christmas Eve. But never seven fishes." Still, after decades of living in New York, Ughi, whose husband is Jewish-American, still consistently hosts a fish-focused Christmas Eve dinner for family and friends. She serves mussels, spaghetti con le vongole (clams), lobsters on the grill, and pandoro, the traditional Italian yeasted bread often served covered in sugar. "[This] is pretty much what my family would cook in Italy," she explains.