You taste the lushness everywhere you go. Garlic tickles your nose but tastes as sweet as candy. Sprigs of mint haunt your throat. Potatoes are more flavorful than most supermarket vegetables back in the States. When your produce is this fresh and this abundant, it takes next to nothing to turn it into dinner. Yet folks in Yunnan are genius cooks, steaming and stir-frying their way to simple dinners but also pickling, fermenting, and preserving everything along the way.