Mustard's enduring appeal stems, in part, from its remarkable versatility. The tiny seed can be toasted and used whole, tossed into a jar of fermenting pickles, ground into a powder, or crushed and mixed with vinegar to form the familiar condiment that we spread onto sandwiches. It adds a welcome, sharp bite to all kinds of dishes, like a hearty dinner of chicken braised with mustard and white wine. An adaptation of a regional French classic, in my version I swap out the traditional Dijon in favor of a grainy, seeded mustard, and add chopped tarragon and thyme. The chicken emerges browned and tender with a richly perfumed sauce so delicious, you'll be mopping it up with bread before the dish even hits the table.